The Golden Ball in Lower Assendon, just outside Henley-on-Thames, is, on the face of it, a quintessential country pub. The 17th-century building is beautifully whitewashed, with wooden planters bursting with spring flowers and the sun-dappled beer garden is dotted with umbrella-shaded tables. It’s classic English countryside through and through, so it’s no surprise The Golden Ball was featured in an episode of Midsomer Murders.
But charming as it may be, the real question is: what’s the food like? We dropped in to find out.
Step through the door of The Golden Ball
, and you’ll find an interior as well-kept as the exterior. The bar area has that same country pub ambience, without feeling forced or having endless farming paraphernalia or copper pots dangling from the ceilings. With just a splash of colour on the walls and simple, natural, exposed wood beams and posts against pale floors, it felt warm, homely, and inviting.
The Golden Ball is run by husband-and-wife team Ben and Priya Watson, who took the reins in November 2022. The pair have 25 years of hospitality experience between them, with Priya working front of house at top London venues such as Jason Atherton’s Little Social and Gymkhana, and Ben working alongside famous names like Gordon Ramsay and Clare Smyth.
With such outstanding credentials, I had high hopes for the menu, and it delivered. Ben sources as many of his ingredients as possible from the local area, and changes dishes regularly, depending on what’s in season. His dishes are rooted in modern European cuisine, but peppered with Punjabi influences that reflect Priya’s heritage. The combination creates some interesting and innovative offerings, which earned The Golden Ball a well-deserved mention in the 2024 Michelin Guide’s pick of Oxfordshire’s best pubs.
Whether you’re a meat-eater, a fan of fish or a vegetarian, you’ll find something to suit on the main menu. Vegan options were in short supply, but since everything is made on the premises, the chef could likely rustle something up if you had specific requirements.
In addition to the à la carte menu, there are several specials to choose from, as well as a set lunch menu featuring two courses for £24 or three courses for £29, offering excellent value for money.
As we perused the menu, freshly baked warm bread rolls arrived at the table, which were superb and consumed before we’d even settled on our main course choices. With a pitying look, the waitress brought us more rolls — don’t worry, they were pretty small — as we made our final choices.
We settled back for some idle chat with a glass of English Baccus from the Bolney Wine Estate
in hand, and our starters arrived in no time. My choice of pan-roasted Loch Duart salmon was perfectly cooked, with lightly charred edges and soft, pink flesh that melted wonderfully.
The roasted breasts of quail with satay dressing and spiced swede that arrived for one of my companions looked delightful, and, from the appreciative noises that came across the table, tasted just as good.
The chicken liver parfait, part of the set lunch menu, was served with toasted brioche and a rhubarb and apple chutney, which added a touch of sweetness to the dish and seemed to hit the spot, too.
For my main course, I headed to the specials menu, where the braised ox cheek had caught my eye. Served with the most incredible horseradish mash, kale and maitake mushrooms, and smothered in beef glaze, the whole dish held together beautifully, with each element complementing the other.
My dinner companions ordered the roasted saddle and confit shoulder of local lamb, served with miso-glazed aubergine, feta, a red pepper and tomato fondue, and crispy cumin potatoes from the main menu, and the local pork chop with mashed potato, fresh pear, kale and a black pepper sauce from the set menu. The lamb dish was beautifully cooked, with a plump, soft texture to the meat, while the pork was equally well-executed, succulent and full of flavour. Both dishes were well balanced, with nothing seeming out of place or surplus to flavour requirements.
With two courses down, it seemed a shame not to take a peek at the dessert menu to see if anything could tempt us. Unsurprisingly, there were a few things there to lead us astray.
I chose the rhubarb macaron, filled with vanilla custard cream and poached Yorkshire rhubarb, served alongside a scoop of ginger ice cream.
It looked impressive, but rather than a couple of smaller whole macarons, the dessert was half of an oversized macaron. It had a light, crisp texture to the shell, but rather than a smooth, chewy centre that melts away, it was a little too dry and crisp. The flavours, though, were well-judged, with the sharpness of the rhubarb nicely offsetting the sweetness of the meringue.
The sticky toffee pudding from the set lunch menu delivered everything you would want, with a rich caramel sauce adding a luxurious sweetness. The impressive-sounding eponymous pudding, The Golden Ball, was one we had to order. With a chocolate sphere, malt mousse, salted caramel sauce and hazelnut ice cream, it was a fitting finale to a great meal.
The Golden Ball has a lot to offer diners. With welcoming staff and an understated but homely atmosphere, there’s little to distract you from the incredible food. With starters and main courses starting from £14 and £28, respectively, prices aren’t overly high, but if you’re dropping in for lunch and you don’t mind fewer options, stick to the excellent set lunch — you’ll get great value for your money, and you certainly won’t go home hungry.
What: The Golden Ball
Where: Lower Assendon, Henley-on-Thames, RG9 6AH
Web: GoldenBallHenley.co.uk
Average Janes Rating: ★★★★★
